Food And Wine’s Best New Chefs 2009

May 5, 2009 at 7:13 am

Somehow yours truly got left off Food & Wine’s list of Best New Chefs of 2009. Well, there is always next year, right? Anyway, here are this year’s more than deserving recipients from the F&W website:

Nate Appleman

A16 and SPQR, San Francisco
A16: Menu | Reservations | Website
SPQR: Menu | Reservations Not Accepted | Website

Nate Appleman has cooked in Italy but credits his Greenville, Ohio, childhood for his initial interest in cooking: “There were whole weekends when no one could go outside because we had three feet of snow. I watched Julia Child and The Frugal Gourmet all day long.“ He’s been fixated on becoming a Best New Chef since picking up a copy of Food & Wine’s July 1998 issue.

We loved: Berkshire pork shoulder roast and porchetta with lemon and wild arugula (A16); spaghetti amatriciana with guanciale, tomatoes, red onion, chile and pecorino (SPQR).

More about Nate Appleman »

 

Bryan Caswell

Reef, Houston
Menu | Reservations | Website

Bryan Caswell doesn’t sauté any fish at Reef; instead, he sears it on a custom-made griddle inspired by the planchas he used while working in Barcelona. “I don’t need a guy washing 9,000 sauté pans,” he says. The Jean-Georges Vongerichten protégé imagines one day opening a 2,000-square-foot oyster bar.

We loved: Crispy-skinned snapper with sweet-and-sour chard and tomato brown butter; grilled amberjack with plantain and long bean sauté.

More about Bryan Caswell »

 

Vinny Dotolo and Jon Shook

Animal, Los Angeles
Menu | Reservations | Website

Vinny Dotolo and Jon Shook met during the first day of cooking school at the Art Institute of Fort Lauderdale. But they learned even more from obsessively eating out. “When we were 22, 23, we went to see our accountant, and he told us we’d spent $150,000 that year on dining,” Shook says.
We loved: Quail fry with slab bacon, chard and maple jus.

More about Vinny Dotolo and Jon Shook »

 

Kelly English

Restaurant Iris, Memphis
Website

Kelly English’s father, a lawyer, had a surprising reaction when his son told him he’d rather go to culinary school than law school: He was delighted. The pair celebrated at New Orleans’s August, where English would later cook with John Besh, now his mentor.

We loved: Sautéed veal sweetbreads with pork belly.

More about Kelly English »

 

Mark Fuller

Spring Hill, Seattle
Menu | Reservations | Website

Seattle-born Mark Fuller spent seven years working under star chef Tom Douglas before branching out on his own with Spring Hill. Fuller’s lifelong passion for noodles started with the saimin (similar to ramen) he ate while growing up in Hawaii. Now he has an enormous following for his Monday night spaghetti-and-meatball dinners, and his favorite YouTube clips are on how to make hand-pulled noodles.

We loved: Olive-oil-poached albacore tuna with smoked king clam panzanella, arugula and avocado.

More about Mark Fuller »

 

Linton Hopkins

Restaurant Eugene and Holeman and Finch Public House, Atlanta
Restaurant Eugene: Menu | Reservations | Website
Holeman and Finch: Menu | Reservations Not Accepted | Website

When Linton Hopkins was a kid, his mom once refused to make him hollandaise sauce for his eggs—so he prepared it himself, with a recipe from Julia Child’s Mastering the Art of French Cooking. Hopkins still has the (egg-stained) cookbook, plus a vast collection of others including Junior League and community cookbooks.

We loved: Chicken livers, soft grits, pickled peaches (at Restaurant Eugene); the H&F burger, served only after 10 p.m. (at Holeman and Finch Public House).

More about Linton Hopkins »

 

Chris Kostow

Meadowood, St. Helena, CA
Menu | Reservations | Website

Chris Kostow has cooked under three former F&W Best New Chefs: Trey Foshee, Daniel Patterson and Daniel Humm. He got his start cooking in high school, when he had a summer job at a restaurant. He’d fry chicken all day, starting at 9 a.m., while listening to the same Beastie Boys album over and over. Among his favorite perks of cooking at Meadowood: “I have a great garden and a beautiful dining room.”

We loved: Bolinas goat poached in whey with wheatgrass, sea salt and olive oil.

More about Chris Kostow »

 

Paul Liebrandt

Corton, New York City
Menu | Reservations | Website

Born in Rhodesia (Zimbabwe) and raised in London, Paul Liebrandt has worked at an impressive number of Michelin-starred restaurants, including Pierre Gagnaire in Paris. He has cooked for both British aristocracy (Prince Andrew) and Hollywood royalty (George Clooney, Brad Pitt, Matt Damon).

We loved: “From the Garden,” a mixture of more than two dozen vegetables and herbs; smoked pasta with Gouda and truffles.

More about Paul Liebrandt »

 

Barry Maiden

Hungry Mother, Boston
Menu | Reservations | Website

Using a grassroots campaign, Barry Maiden raised more than $10,000 (much of it through Pay Pal) to finance Hungry Mother. “We started with friends and family, asking them to donate $5 to $500 to help offset the costs, and the word spread. We got contributions from as far away as California,” he says. All the donor’s names are now stenciled on a wall at the restaurant.

We loved: Warm beef tongue canapé; fried green tomato, grilled homemade bacon and red remoulade sauce.

More about Barry Maiden »

 

Naomi Pomeroy

Beast, Portland, OR
Menu | Reservations: 503.841.6968 | Website

Naomi Pomeroy taught herself how to cook using cookbooks, including a decades-old copy of The Joy of Cooking. The onetime vegetarian eats meat now, but she’s choosy about where it comes from: She picks the non-sustainably raised beef out of her favorite pho noodle soup.

We loved: Charcuterie plate with foie gras bonbon; steak tartare and quail egg toast; chicken liver mousse with candied bacon.

More about Naomi Pomeroy »

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Stuart Reb Donald

Stuart is a celebrity chef and award winning food writer. Donald performs live cooking demonstrations and penned the cookbook Amigeauxs - Mexican/Creole Fusion Cuisine. He hosts two Internet cooking shows "Everyday Gourmet" and "Little Grill Big Flavor."

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